Summer Travel Issue Destination of the Week, Destinations, LowFares Summer Issue, Travel Guides
Gaudi’s Barcelona
The columns stretching above my head were slender and graceful, the ceiling undulating and spiraling away in plaster waves. Walls and corners were rounded, decorated with bits of circular colored glass and mosaic tiles. There wasn’t a corner, square or hard edge in sight.
This was Casa Batlló, one of Antoni Gaudí’s most stunning works in Barcelona. The Modernist architect from southern Catalonia populated the city with many of his graceful, whimsical, highly original projects. Early on, Gaudí designed in the same vein as the traditional Gothic architecture popular at the time, but he soon developed his own style that was highly influenced by curves and shapes found in nature, or perhaps even dreams. Gaudí’s work, which is found all over Barcelona, can have a mystical, even hallucinatory feel, and range in complexity from simple (though never plain) to incredibly intricate.
His work was ridiculed early on and later praised; it is from his style that we get the term “gaudy,” meaning garishly overdone. But whatever you think of his designs, one thing is certain–they are interesting, amazing to explore and there is nothing else in the world quite like them. Love it or hate it, you simply cannot be indifferent to the architecture of Antoni Gaudí.
If you are a fan of Gaudí, or simply of history and convention-breaking architecture, no visit to the city would be complete without an exploration of Gaudí’s Barcelona.
43 Passieg de Gràcia
Hidden behind a fanciful exterior of colored mosaic tiles, curved walls and semi-circle balconies is a world of interior surprises. In every corner you will discover surprising details in a variety of textures and elements. Built in 1904-1906 for wealthy aristocrat Josep Batlló, Gaudí personally directed the placement of every ceramic tile in painstaking detail. Color is mostly on its exterior; the interior is comprised of more muted curving sandstone walls and exquisite woodwork, into which stained glass pieces have been placed and lend incredible light. The double attic and roof are just as thrilling as the inside, with a dramatic light well and cheerful chimneys that have become iconic. Open 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM daily; tickets are 17.80 euros, including audio guide.
Provença, 261-265
You will hear this building referred to by both names; it used to be called Casa Milà but is now known more commonly as La Padrera. Gaudí’s characteristically wavy exterior stonework and colorful mosaic tiles are also evident in this one-time apartment building, finished in 1911. Although in some ways it might be plainer than Casa Batlló, it is the finest example of Gaudí’s blending of natural elements with architecture to create a truly organic world. The wrought iron balconies are exquisitely intricate and forms are bold and symbolic. Open 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM March through October, and 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM November through February; tickets are 10 euros.
Park Güell
Carrer d’Olot, Lesseps stop on Green Metro line
Commissioned by Eusebi Güell in 1900, this piece of land was created as a stylish park for Barcelona aristocracy, but today seems a fanciful playland for families. Scattered throughout the park are amazing carved structures, fountains and the colorful mosaic tile work Gaudí was famous for. The rooftop of the large pavilion is ringed with mosaic benches and offers astounding views of the city. A small home where Gaudí once lived is also located here, and is open as a museum. The park is at the top of a rather steep hill, requiring a 20-minute walk. Free.
Calle Mallorca 401
This is the crowning masterpiece of Gaudi’s work, and Barcelona’s most visited attraction. A devout Catholic, in his later years Gaudí devoted himself to this cathedral, which began building in 1882. It has been under construction ever since. When you visit, you must peek around the scaffolding and interior structure, which are still very much in progress. Already underway for 128 years, Sagrada Familia is not expected to complete until nearly 2030. The slender, elegantly-carved spires reach up to the heavens, with the requisite combination of gargoyles and saints adorning its façade. Don’t miss the climb up into the towers. The Pope is scheduled to consecrate the church on November 7, 2010, at which time it is due to be opened for public worship. Open 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM April through September, and 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM October through March; tickets are 12 euros.
Insider’s Tip: All of these sites are very popular and accrue long lines quickly, as much as two or three hours long (with the exception of Park Güell, though it can still, at times, become quite crowded). The best advice is to arrive at least 30 minutes prior to opening time. The Barcelona tourism board also has a terrific set of MP3 audio guides on all things Barcelona, which you can download for free.
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