Featured, Guide of the Week
London’s Offbeat Neighborhoods
Whether you have never been to London before, or it’s one of your most visited destinations, the city of nearly eight million people has plenty to see and do off the beaten path. Anyone can watch the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace, set their watch by Big Ben, take a tour of Westminster Abbey or gawk over the Rosetta Stone at the British Museum. But with hidden, quirky neighborhoods galore, this international metropolis has plenty to offer both the first-time visitor and the U.K. habitué alike. Try exploring some of these neighborhoods on your next visit for some primo shopping, stylish cafes and some of the best people-watching in the world.
Seven Dials
If you’ve been to London, chances are you’ve been to the Seven Dials already, but just don’t know it. This warren of charming streets lodged between the shopping mecca of Covent Garden and the toffish hangouts of Soho gets its name from the fact that each of the streets radiate off a small central circle with the famous Seven Dials Sun Pillar where young couples and old friends make plans to rendezvous with a jaunty “Meet you at the dial!”
The surrounding streets are a thrilling mishmash of one-of-a-kind boutiques, vintage stores, modish cafés, and pop-up shops. By far one of the most exciting byways of the area is Monmouth Street, sometimes called “the sexiest street in London,” where everyone from punkish teenagers to incognito celebrities come to spend some time checking out the latest trends. The street’s anchor is the swanky Covent Garden Hotel, housed in the Old French Dispensary Hospital building, which stars like Johnny Depp like to call home in London. It also holds one of the areas best see-and-be-seen spots, Brasserie Max, where you can stop for a cappuccino at one of the sidewalk tables and watch all the pretty young things wander on by.
Nearby are flagship stores for both London-based and international brands. There’s Miller-Harris, a fragrance shop in an old apothecary, where customers can buy designer scents concocted by Lyn Harris, one of the only women trained as a master parfumier in Grasse. Across the street are the racy lingerie and erotica store, Coco de Mer, and Orla Kiely, whose nostalgic patterns are flying off the shelves now, and cover everything from clothing and luggage to home goods. Tatty Devine has a jewelry boutique nearby, and for handbags and accessories, you can’t beat Australian brand Mimco.
Those looking for something with a vintage edge should stop by Mint Vintage Clothing around the corner on Earlham Street, where even models like Agnes Deyn have been known to stop by before date night to pick up something special.
The Neal’s Yard Shops between Shorts Gardens and Shelton Street are a one-stop emporium for mall-style boutique shopping, though it does have a few unique stores like Gary Holder London Jewellery, though the clandestine Neal’s Yard itself is a little quirkier with vegetarian cafés and health stores like Neal’s Yard Remedies, which sells sought-after organic skincare products. Plus, if you crane your neck to peek at the second floor, you’ll see a plaque to Monty Python, who had their offices here for a short time.
There are sweet treats to be had at the neon-bright cupcake shop called Candy Cakes on Monmouth Street, and the trendy crowd still packs a restaurant that’s been drawing crowds since it opened over a decade ago, Belgo. For a trippy experience, stop by Circus on Endell Street to have a drink while watching the fire dancers, acrobats and contortionists performing on the tables.
Seven Dials is definitely one of the best places in London to spend an afternoon browsing, snacking and reveling. If, as is common problem here, you find you’re buying too many items to carry around yourself, the area has also started a complimentary “Bag Boy” and “Bag Girl” concierge service where you get the personal attention (and strong arms) of an attendant all to yourself for an hour. You can book one in advance at Seven Dials Bag Boys.
Carnaby Street
Not too far from the bustle of Covent Garden is the fashion center of Carnaby Street, between Piccadilly and Oxford Circus.
Carnaby was the heart of swinging London for decades (it’s often associated with Twiggy), and continues to be a cool shopping destination for global brands and independent operators alike. Kingly Court just off Carnaby Street itself is a great place to start your time here. The multi-storey courtyard mall contains one-off and temporary pop-up stores in the little cubby storefronts. Stretch out in a class at triyoga, then pop in for a refreshing afternoon tea with all the hipsters on the top floor at Camellia World Teas, before perusing the wares at stores like Traffic People, Willian and George, and Atelier Millinery.
Afterward, wander out onto Carnaby Street itself and just north into the Newburgh Corner, a small district of independent boutiques, cafes and pubs that have taken over the elegant Georgian shop fronts. It’s been a fashion hub since the 1960’s, and designers including the great Jean-Paul Gaultier started out here.
One of the most unique boutiques in the area is the one of only three Levi Vintage Clothing stores in the world (the other two are in Tokyo and Milan), which offers limited quantities of vintage editions made on hand looms. Shoppers can also find one-of-a-kind pieces at several pop-up boutiques showcasing the works of recent graduates of the London School of Fashion where you can pick up apparel that could become collector’s items when some of these creative folks go on to make names for themselves.
There are also quirky specialist shops with cult followings, such as Lomography, which sells antique cameras and related paraphernalia, and the Peckham Rye Tie Shop, which is a hip throwback to classic men’s haberdashery, and offers neckwear in a variety of styles ranging from the traditionally conservative to the edgily contemporary. If you’re lucky, the proprietor will also relate his family’s long and storied past in the clothing business, which includes stints by black sheep in the military and debtor’s prison.
Camden Town and Primrose Hill
Located around the Camden Town and Chalk Farm Underground stations in the north of London, these two adjacent neighborhoods couldn’t be more different. On the one hand, you’ve got Camden: a riot of tattoo parlors, punk clothing stores, tourist knickknacks, casual cafés and, let’s just say “fashion-forward” adolescents. While on the other, Primrose Hill, you’ve got cozy celebrity hideaways (Kate Moss has a pied-à-terre here), frosting-colored cupcake bakeries, and designer jewelry boutiques. All that means an afternoon spent here packs pleasures and surprises for everyone.
The activity of Camden centers around the well trodden shops of the Canal Lock Market, a leftover canal in the middle of the city where you can still find barges, though many have now been converted into small businesses and theme cafes. The Lock also has bricked alleys and closes with all sorts of vintage and second-hand shops that should interest your inner teenager, though also a few up-and-coming spots like The Chin Chin Laboratorists, an ice creamery that uses nitrogen gas to flash-freeze its delectable delicacies.
There are also innumerable stands selling everything from Ethiopian food to burnished antiques at the recently converted Stables Market, which, with over 450 shops, is one of the city’s largest shopping centers.
Just across the railroad tracks lies the quaint country-village-in-the-city of Primrose Hill. You’ll find up-market boutiques along the otherwise idyllically residential Gloucester Road, like Sweet Pea Jewellery, which sells owner Siobhan O’Neil’s distinguished line of precious crafts, as well as those of other top London designers. Just up the block is one of London’s sweetest sights, Primrose Bakery, which launched the whole cupcake trend in the U.K. with goodies like its Earl Grey, and chocolate-peanut butter cupcakes.
Just down the block is a beautiful vintage womenswear store with one of the best selections in London of everything from shoes to purses to prom dresses and minis, called Shikasuki.
Meanwhile, a wander along the main drag of Regent’s Park Road will bring you to the actual park it’s named after for one of the most spectacular views of the city. On the way back down the street toward the Chalk Hill station, stop by a few shops on its modest length. Grab a spot of tea or an Asian-fusion pastry at the tiny Lanka, which was a runner up for the 2010 Timeout London “Eating and Drinking Award,” or pop into Primrose Hill Books to browse the collector’s editions and new releases.
Whether you’re new to London, or you know it like the back of your hand, there are always new surprises just around the corner in the offbeat neighborhoods of this constantly changing metropolis For more information about what to do and where to go in London, take a look at Visit London.
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All London images via Eric Rosen.




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